Dining at Okku is a more intimate experience than some of its peers. The dark, funky interior is split in two by a fibre optic style wall that acts both as divider and light source. The bar, full of hot young things, sits on the upper level while the main dining area is downstairs. Music is a mixture of world beats and Latin lounge provided by a live DJ.

After the waitress guided us skillfully through the menu, we settled on a few appetizers to start off. As at Zuma, dishes arrive as they are prepared, so you know everything that reaches your table is freshly made.

First up was the Spicy Rock Shrimp. Always a personal favourite, it was surprisingly sweet, deliciously crunchy and had a little wasabi kick at the end. Next was the Aubergine Shigiyaki, glazed in a sweet miso sauce and boasting a generous portion of firm aubergine meat. Last to arrive was the ‘O-style’ Yellowtail Carpaccio, wafer-thin and beautifully presented, with a topping of spring onions and a dash of wasabi.

Although our eyes kept wondering over the page to the Black Cod, we decided to hold off and try a couple of the waitress’ recommendations first. The Sashimi Salad came loaded with tuna, salmon and hamachi, all fresh and full of dense flavour.  The Scallop Ceviche ‘On The Shell’ was another highlight, a tasty combination of scallop, onions and avocado with a zesty sauce.

There’s one final question that every lover of contemporary Japanese cuisine will be asking – how does the Black Cod at Okku compare to Nobu and Zuma? The answer is – very well. Offering a citrusy variation on the traditional miso sauce, Okku’s interpretation tasted lighter yet still had that melt-in-your-mouth quality. Crispy on the outside but soft and flaky in the centre.

Fully sated, we skipped dessert and enjoyed one last drink at the bar to reflect on the meal. The friendly bar staff were happy to chat with us, reflecting the excellent service throughout.

With a nightclub vibe to complement its excellent food, Okku is a welcome addition to Dubai’s growing list of Japanese restaurants. The cozy atmosphere contrasts nicely to some of its peers in this city, and reminded both me and my dining companion of evenings out in New York. Okku seems destined to become a regular meeting spot for Dubai’s trendiest foodies.

We started with the small plate of sushi, which came loaded with Nigiri, Sashimi and California rolls. The sashimi in particular was fresh, nicely chilled and served in generous portions (Buddha Bar – take note!). The salmon sashimi had an especially rich and creamy texture.

Next to arrive was our choice from the Teppanyaki menu, the Niku Karakushi. The tender slices of sirloin steak, with blended chillis and Teriyaki sauce, lived up to expectations and was a great dish to share.

Service was excellent throughout, and our waitress was happy to walk us through the menu and explain the house specialities (Peking Duck, Niku Karakushi). A lovely Rioja from the wine list competed the experience. We’ll definitely be going back.

The restaurant features live music from a resident DJ, a lounge upstairs for drinks before dinner, and a sushi bar in the main dining area downstairs. Food is New Wave Japanese Cuisine, which basically means very expensive sushi.